Alexander Wang: Fall/Winter 2012
Trying to describe Alexander Wang’s latest collection with a simple line of words is almost impossible. As there was so much going on, all you can say about his Fall/Winter 2012 show is that is simply... sublime! The always easy-cool-sporty Wang tried something different creating his most luxurious and glamourous collection to date, that focused on the trompe l’oeil, creating magnificent sartorial confusion, “a surrealist approach to fabric manipulation. The idea is a distorted perception of things you might think are raincoats but are actually laminated tweeds”, said Wang before the show.
It was a technological collection and not because of any kind of Sci-Fi references but the magnificent innovation in his fabrics, thanks to his high-octane sportswear machine that is capable of of developing 90% of the materials used in his line. Cocoon and boxy silhouettes came with shiny treatments in a simple palette of pure black, white and hints of burgundy, a shyer choice than last season that came in neon and floral bold prints, focusing in the fabrics and silhouettes this time.
There was a dark mood - too dark, actually -, that felt almost like a sin just to be watching the collection. With fishnet turtlenecks pulled up over some models’ mouth the show felt like an incredibly chic dark-cult full of glam-aggression. There were the quilted sporty jackets with hardcore leather skirts, with see-through drapping full of edginess that transformed into the most delightful and avant-guard french bourgeois.
At the end of the show the light became a little bit shinier and warmer, to introduce the final looks with some of the biggest super models of all time, including Karolina Kurkova, Shalom Harlow, Carmen Kass and Gisele Bündchen - right after her super bowl scandal -, who all stood in front of the cubic giant mirrors, a surreal and wow moment, in which my heart stopped of excitement. What a powerful fashion moment... no matter the hidden secret intention behind, it was magical. A terrific collection full of glamour luxury and cool avant-guardism. Once again Mr. Wangs shows why he is the golden urban New York Fashion boy.