Last season, it was Wall-Street chic with an edgy attempt for more commercial clothes. This season, is just more accessible and incredibly commercial clothes. Just that... So, let’s sell.
With hints of the iconic Balenciaga’s volume and Ghesquière’s unique aesthetic, ruffles stole the show in black and white dresses and skirts like Spanish Flamenco dancers that were alluring and beautiful yet mysterious. Another big Balenciaga statement on the show were the Cropped boxy sweaters and jackets, and beautiful mini skirts in all possible ways and shapes that were as complicated - in terms of cut and fabric processes - as they were desirable.
In the end it was a very smart, chic, sharp and glamourous collection, for the - ultra rich - masses. But I am not sure what was the real idea behind it... “An evocation of mythological drama,” Ghesquière said during a preview, which does not sound so convincing. I do not know if Mr. Ghesquière wanted to shock with one of the most commercial collections he has ever done for the legendary house, an unexpected departure from his usual avant-guard power; or it was an strong attempt to deal with the current crisis and sell more... but in the end, it felt like something was missing.
Off course, there were beautiful and incredibly desirable clothes with that singular Balenciaga By Ghesquière take on luxury, and an inspirational edge. But his signature statement pieces were somehow missing, it was a memorable collection with great pieces but definitely not his most memorable. That ultra shocking wow - this is the future of fashion - I-have-not-seen this-before factor was missing.
One way or another it was a strong and gorgeous collection, that still was one of the best of the season, but for Nicolas Ghesquière’s standarts, it jus was not enough. It was simply beautiful, desirable and very commercial with an edge that buyers and editors are definitely going to love.