Japan became Prada’s big statement of the season... A fun collection to watch, specially because of the shoes with an evident oriental savoir-flair, a modern western take on the eastern silhouette and aesthetic.
Beautiful prints, with flowers awkwardly placed on the clothes like a patchwork technique on black and dark green, were there to be seen as a big statement of delicacy at the beginning of the show. Then, more flowers were placed in a more sophisticated way with hints of colors like red, to give the collection a stronger ninja and samurai vibe, that made the models look like powerful women who were taking over the runway... “toughness and the poetic part,” Miuccia Prada explained backstage. “I tried to mix them together, because this is mainly what women have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream”.
Boxy silhouettes and Kimonos with big blooms that came as an ode to Rei Kawakubo, mixed with Prada’s ongoing fascination with lingerie, and an athletic aesthetic and a retro vibe as an appealing twist on the collection were the highlight of the show. Some pieces, as the Kiomono inspired jackets with such strong architectonical modernism were simply majestic. And the accessories became the most interesting statement of the collection, beautiful handbags that must already be in everybody’s wish-list.
But it was an odd collection that sometimes felt like it worked but sometimes felt like it did not, that mostly did not have that strong Prada signature aesthetic and memorability. Definitely not one of her strongest collections. Is she losing her lust? Where is her thunder?
It was beautiful and modern with hints of luxury and intellectualism indeed, but it was not that great. Miuccia is losing her memorability while gaining an un-necessary awkwardness. Let’s wait and see what is next for the great Prada... I am ready for the redemption.