Reactions to story from Gadling
The First Family of Surf: A Documentary
http://www.gadling.com/ 2008/ 03/ 28/ the-first-family-of-surf-a-documentary/
Filed under: Surfing I think people, even those who aren't big travellers, wish they could just pick up and leave it all behind -- the mediocre job, the boring classes and the never-ending bills....just disappear into the horizon to find something bigger than everyday life. Some people refuse to accept the mundane and, like Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz, they step out of the norm and into something else altogether. Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz, a successful doctor and serious surfer, decided one day in 1956, after suffering from anxiety and insomnia, that enough was enough, packed up a 24 foot camper van with his wife and nine children and set off on the open road in search of the "perfect wave".
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